MaC
Moderator
Buying the waxes used to proof jackets, bags, tents, etc., is expensive, and you don't always know what's in them.
If you prefer a specific quality or smell, then making your own is simple.
Base recipe.....
Wax
but what kind of wax ?
Well, commercially, because it's cheap, the base is paraffin wax. This is a soft wax that's a bit of a bye product of industry, pretty much as petroleum jelly is.
However, soft and easily absorbed though it may be it off gases (it's not quite sublimation because it doesn't all evaporate, it's just sort of loses potency) and slowly disappears off the fabric. You can recover the situation to some extent by tumble drying on hot, or using a hot iron or hairdryer. This remelts what's left in the fibres and it sort of spreads out and re-soaks and proofs. It's a make do until you get a chance to clean the item and redo it properly.
The traditional recipe is Beeswax, Boiled Linseed Oil and real Turpentine......does that sound like furniture polish to you ? it should, because that's what it is
But it works, and it works well. Just you rather smell of linseed oil and turps, like a boatyard
Thing is though, just using beeswax is no more a good idea than just using plain paraffin wax. It's too crisp. It's fine for the soles of re-enactors leather shoes where hard isn't a bad thing, but cuire boile is literally leather heated up in hot wax and it makes those rock solid leather water bottles....or armour parts
What is really good is a mix of beeswax and paraffin wax. Best of both really, and if you like the smell of turps then a little added in is a good thing.
It's also quite acceptable to add in some birch tar, if the garment or leather is dark, though the birch essential oil won't darken the mixture but will add scent and potency re stopping insects and vermin chewing.
So, some simple recipe lists.....mind grate up the beeswax first, it'll melt an awful lot easier and more quickly. If you've found yourself with a 1kg block of the stuff, just melt it down and pour it into a couple tinfoil lined baking trays. Thin sheets of the stuff snap up no bother into smaller pieces for melting down when you need it.
100g Beeswax
50g boiled linseed oil
50g real turpentine....if you use substitute you'll smell like you're painting the glosswork, but it does make a fairly reasonable rub in mixture.
or
100g Beeswax
60g paraffin wax (you can buy this from the folks who sell candle making supplies, they're cheaper than most)
or
100g Beeswax
50g real turpentine
25g vaseline....since it's easy to get hold of.
10g of stockholm tar or 1 teaspoonful of birch oil.
Tinfoil dishes, like the kind that takeaways come in, are very handy to pour the wax into to cool and to store. Personally I prefer a screw top tin, but old shoe polish tins are sound.
Melt the wax, carefully.....if you're using turps and linseed oil, do it outside. Do it on a low heat, make sure it's well melted, then add the other ingredients, mixing well each time. Once it is mixed take it off the heat. You need to stir gently until it begins to set. Then pour and set aside to cool.
To use, just use it like shoe polish. I keep a brush just for the wax. It brushes into every seam and nook and cranny and rubs it in well. Set aside for a day or so, then turn the hairdryer on it to really melt it in and settle it. I also keep a shoe polishing brush just to brush the whole thing firmly, make sure I have no extra wax lying on the surface, no stickiness.
Lasts for years keeps leather and canvas and cotton in good nick, and waterproof
M
If you prefer a specific quality or smell, then making your own is simple.
Base recipe.....
Wax
but what kind of wax ?
Well, commercially, because it's cheap, the base is paraffin wax. This is a soft wax that's a bit of a bye product of industry, pretty much as petroleum jelly is.
However, soft and easily absorbed though it may be it off gases (it's not quite sublimation because it doesn't all evaporate, it's just sort of loses potency) and slowly disappears off the fabric. You can recover the situation to some extent by tumble drying on hot, or using a hot iron or hairdryer. This remelts what's left in the fibres and it sort of spreads out and re-soaks and proofs. It's a make do until you get a chance to clean the item and redo it properly.
The traditional recipe is Beeswax, Boiled Linseed Oil and real Turpentine......does that sound like furniture polish to you ? it should, because that's what it is
But it works, and it works well. Just you rather smell of linseed oil and turps, like a boatyard
Thing is though, just using beeswax is no more a good idea than just using plain paraffin wax. It's too crisp. It's fine for the soles of re-enactors leather shoes where hard isn't a bad thing, but cuire boile is literally leather heated up in hot wax and it makes those rock solid leather water bottles....or armour parts
What is really good is a mix of beeswax and paraffin wax. Best of both really, and if you like the smell of turps then a little added in is a good thing.
It's also quite acceptable to add in some birch tar, if the garment or leather is dark, though the birch essential oil won't darken the mixture but will add scent and potency re stopping insects and vermin chewing.
So, some simple recipe lists.....mind grate up the beeswax first, it'll melt an awful lot easier and more quickly. If you've found yourself with a 1kg block of the stuff, just melt it down and pour it into a couple tinfoil lined baking trays. Thin sheets of the stuff snap up no bother into smaller pieces for melting down when you need it.
100g Beeswax
50g boiled linseed oil
50g real turpentine....if you use substitute you'll smell like you're painting the glosswork, but it does make a fairly reasonable rub in mixture.
or
100g Beeswax
60g paraffin wax (you can buy this from the folks who sell candle making supplies, they're cheaper than most)
or
100g Beeswax
50g real turpentine
25g vaseline....since it's easy to get hold of.
10g of stockholm tar or 1 teaspoonful of birch oil.
Tinfoil dishes, like the kind that takeaways come in, are very handy to pour the wax into to cool and to store. Personally I prefer a screw top tin, but old shoe polish tins are sound.
Melt the wax, carefully.....if you're using turps and linseed oil, do it outside. Do it on a low heat, make sure it's well melted, then add the other ingredients, mixing well each time. Once it is mixed take it off the heat. You need to stir gently until it begins to set. Then pour and set aside to cool.
To use, just use it like shoe polish. I keep a brush just for the wax. It brushes into every seam and nook and cranny and rubs it in well. Set aside for a day or so, then turn the hairdryer on it to really melt it in and settle it. I also keep a shoe polishing brush just to brush the whole thing firmly, make sure I have no extra wax lying on the surface, no stickiness.
Lasts for years keeps leather and canvas and cotton in good nick, and waterproof
M